YOUR NEW BIRD
ITS CARE AND FEEDING
Congratulations on your foray into the world of pet birds. A bird can be an excellent companion and a joy to own if it is handled correctly. Even the birds which are not likely to be hand-trainable such as the finch species and canaries will provide you with many hours of cheerful songs and interesting behavior. Birds however, are quite fragile and must be cared for correctly if you are to enjoy them.
WHAT YOU NEED TO HAVE ON HAND FOR YOUR NEW BIRD
1. Cage: Almost every bird needs a bird cage, we all know that. What many of us do not know is what kind of cage our birds should have.The minimum size cage for a bird that will be tamed and allowed to spend a lot of time outside its cage is one that will let the bird spread out its wings completely without touching the sides of the cage. It must also be large enough so that the bird's tail feathers do not rub against the cage bars as it moves around. Birds that are not to be tamed or that will have to spend most of their lives in the cage should have considerably larger quarters. The bird should have enough room to climb or hop around freely. A flight cage is even better. The parrot-type birds, including parakeets (budgies), cockatiels, lovebirds, conures and the larger parrots need cage bars that run horizontally so that they can hold on to them as they climb around. All psittacines (parrot-type birds) enjoy climbing. The perching birds (finches, canaries, mynahs, doves etc.) generally do not climb. The parrots will chew anything they can, because of this you should NEVER try to keep a parakeet (or any other psittacine) in a decorative wooden or bamboo cage. They will quickly destroy the cage. It is MUCH easier to keep the cage and surrounding area clean if the cage has a deep pull tray in which you keep a litter such as corncob or a paper lining. Never use newspaper or magazine pages as the bird will chew them up and is quite likely to get sick or die from the ink. Plain white unscented paper towels make an acceptable substitute for commercial cage paper, you can even use paper grocery bags in a pinch, but some authorities consider them unsafe for long term use. If you are refinishing an old cage be absolutely certain to use a NON-TOXIC paint on it, as your bird will probably chew the paint off the bars. When cleaning your cage wash it well with dish soap and hot water if it needs to be disinfected a little Chlorox in water makes a fairly safe disinfectant. Be sure to rinse and dry the cage thoroughly before putting the bird back into it. Perches should be scraped, not washed, as it is very difficult to dry wet wood out. Damp perches may lead to health problems if your bird is forced to sit on them.
2. Perches: Your new cage will probably come with perches. These may or may not be adequate. Birds really should have at least two different sizes of perches available to them. This is so that they can rest their feet by changing perch size. There are perches available in pet shops that resemble tree branches. These are great as they provide a variety of grips for your bird.
3. Food/water dishes: Be sure that your cage has enough dishes to contain not only seed and water, but also grit, food supplements and the fresh foods that you will be giving your pet. Generally speaking it is a bad idea to throw food or grit on the bottom of the cage where it will become contaminated with the bird's droppings.
4. Toys: Most finches and soft-billed birds do not play with toys very much. These birds will probably be content with a bird pacifier and a swing. They will also enjoy a mirror, and of course, a bird bath. Psittacine birds play with toys a lot. In fact toys are essential if your bird is not to become bored. Boredom is very frustrating to our larger birds and can lead to many problems such as feather plucking. All psittacines love to chew, so be certain to give them some of the many chew toys available at your pet store. They also enjoy toys that they can manipulate and carry around, and interactive toys such as mirrors. Please be sure that the toy is strong enough to survive the rough play that your pet may indulge in and that it has no sharp edges or pieces that the bird could get caught in.
5. Bathtubs: All birds should have the opportunity to bathe daily so they can keep their feathers healthy. Depending on the size of the bird you may either give it a commercial bird bath, a large, heavy shallow bowl on the bottom of the cage, or, with tame birds, let him play in the sink in warm, shallow water. If your bird will not bathe, use a commercial bird bath spray on him at least twice a week.
Mite and lice protectors and sprays-if your bird is never in contact with other birds there is no way he can pick up lice and mites. All new birds should be treated with lice and mite spray at least twice, at the recommended intervals, before being placed in the same room with old birds.
NOW YOU HAVE HIM-WHAT DO YOU DO WITH HIM?
ACCLIMATION-THE FIRST FEW DAYS
1.When you are ready to take your new bird home please be sure that you do so in a closed carrier or tightly covered cage.
Drafts can prove fatal to any bird!
2. Place his cage in an area where he will see the family frequently, but will not be exposed to drafts, cooking fumes, lots of cigarette smoke, incense, etc.MANY BIRDS ARE KILLED EVERY YEAR BY FUMES FROM OVER-HEATED TEFLON COOKWARE. IF YOU USE TEFLON OR NON-STICK COOKWARE PLEASE BE AWARE THAT THE SLIGHTEST EXPOSURE TO THESE FUMES WILL RAPIDLY KILL EVERY BIRD IN YOUR HOUSE! Putting his cage in a window, or even worse outside, so that he can get some sun, is likely to kill the bird if it cannot get out of the sun or away from the draft that comes from windows, even when they are closed.
3. Give the bird food and water and leave him alone to settle in. We strongly recommend giving any new bird a vitamin-mineral-electrolyte supplement in its water daily for the first 5-7 days in a new home. This will help a stressed, probably frightened bird stay healthy. If the bird seems really upset put a 40-60 watt light bulb right against the cage to allow him to maintain his body temperature.
4. Once the bird has had a few days to settle in and is eating and drinking well THEN start hand-taming it if you want to
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FEEDING AND WATERING
1. Birds have such a rapid metabolism and such a high body temperature; they MUST have food available constantly. A small bird can starve to death in 24 hours! Bird seed alone is not an adequate diet for birds. All birds should have fresh greens… anything other than iceberg lettuce daily. Most birds enjoy fresh fruit and vegetables, although some can not handle avocado well. A protein source such as hard-boiled egg, yolk, white, shell and all, cooked lean meat or poultry, cheese, yogurt or peanut butter is essential for good health. Breeders usually feed insects such as mealworms and fruit flies. You can even buy freeze dried worms and flies for your birds! Larger birds love monkey or dog biscuits and these provide a wonderful supplement for them. Complete pelleted diets are available, if you feed one of these it reduces, but does not eliminate your bird's need for fresh food. Avian veterinarians now recommend that no more than 20% (for large parrots) to 60% (for finches and canaries) of a bird's diet should be bird seed. If you have a specialized feeder such as a lorikeet, mynah or honeycreeper you should consult a good pet shop and an avian veterinarian about a proper diet.
ALL FOOD MUST BE CLEAN AND FRESH, SEEDS NOT MOLDY, FRUIT AND VEGETABLES WELL WASHED AND RINSED. DIRTY, STALE OR ROTTEN FOOD WILL KILL YOUR BIRD.
2. Cuttlebone and mineral blocks: All birds should have free access to a cuttlebone or mineral block. Always!
3. Grit and gravel is recommended for finches, canaries and other primarily seed-eating birds, but is rather controversial for psittacines. We recommend choosing a good avian veterinarian and following his or her recommendations.
4. Vitamin/mineral supplements suppliments added to a bird's food or water are cheap insurance against dietary deficiencies. However you cannot feed a poor diet and expect the supplement to keep your bird healthy.
5. Water: A constant supply of clean, fresh water is essential to your bird's survival. Bird water fscups rapidly develop a bacterial scum and must be washed frequently and rinsed thoroughly. A dirty water bowl is a death sentence for too many birds.
6. Treat foods are just that, treats for your bird. They are great for preventing boredom with the same old diet, and provide some variety in a bird's diet. Feed these treats frequently but in small amounts, never as your bird's base diet.
IN SICKNESS AND IN HEALTH
With proper care and diet you will rarely have a sick bird. More bird illnesses are caused by improper diet than any other single factor! There are, however a few key points to remember when dealing with a sick or injured bird.
1.The body temperature of most pet birds is normally between 106 and 112 degrees Farenheit! A sick, injured or frightened bird that does not eat enough will have a rapid drop in body temperature. This makes the bird feel less like eating and starts a rapid downward spiral towards death.
THE FIRST THING TO DO WITH A SICK OR INJURED BIRD IS TO WARM IT UP. This can be done by putting a light bulb against the bird's cage in such a manner that it can get close to the bulb- but not touch it. This heat source will frequently save the bird's life. Make sure that you don't cook the bird. He must be able to get away from the light bulb if he wants to.
2.Birds need periodic attention such as toenail and beak trims and wing clipping. Find a good avian vet and get him to show you how to do these.
3.The difference between a sick bird and a dead bird is often a matter of a very few hours. If you think something is wrong with your bird get it to the vet IMMEDIATELY tomorrow may well be too late.
4.Bleeding from a broken feather or toenail can be a medical emergency. Birds can bleed to death quite rapidly. Control bleeding by direct pressure, or in the case of a broken feather by carefully pulling the feather out, while you are on the way to the veterinarian.
5.Accidents can usually be prevented by thinking ahead. If you allow your bird free flight, watch out for open toilets he might drown in, pots on the stove he might fall into and dangerous perching places-such as the top of a door that might be closed, thereby crushing the bird. It is safer to keep your bird wing-clipped. Too many birds are lost through open doors and never seen again. Simple care and consideration will keep your bird happy and healthy for many years. Even budgies can live for fifteen years and some parrots for 75 years or more! Remember to call us if you have any questions about your bird and its care-we'll glad to try to answer them.